Lisbon

The first sign you are leaving Lisbon properly is not the bridge. It is the smell. The tiled city slips behind you, the Tejo opens out like a sheet of hammered metal, and the air starts to carry salt, pine resin, warm road dust, and the faint cellar-breath of old wood. Setúbal does not have … Read more

The road out of Lisbon changes faster than most visitors expect. Tiles, traffic and tram wires fall away; then, in about the time it takes to finish a proper bica and argue about lunch, you are in Azeitão, where the cellars smell of old timber, cool stone and the bitter-orange lift of Moscatel de Setúbal. … Read more